Muriega! My second month in Kenya is quickly coming to a close, and I am not sure if I have written yet about the beauty of this place. Central Province is by far one of the loveliest places I have ever seen. My school is surrounded by coffee farms and small shambas. The soil is a deep reddish-brown color, and it grows everything from sukuma, carrots, potatoes, onions, and tomatoes, to mangos, avocados, bananas, and sugar cane. The sky and the vegetation have that vibrant color to them that all equatorial lands share because the sunlight makes everything seem brighter.
Life in rural Kenya is much slower and simpler than any place I have ever lived before, yet in some ways it resembles life in small-town South Carolina. People are friendly, they greet each other on the street, and everything the wazungu (aka Kari and I) do gets seen by someone and passed along the chain to everyone else. On the way home from a walk one afternoon, one of the gatekeepers at Icaciri stopped Kari and I on the road to invite us into his home. Mzee Henry, as we call him, has lived in this area for his entire life. His home is next door to that of his brother, which is the home where his parents lived until their deaths. We were able to meet his wife, Susan, and to have tea and nduma with them. I cannot even begin to explain the depth of Kenyan hospitality. I thought that the South held the prize for hospitality, but we cannot even hold a candle to the people here. No matter what someone has, they are willing to share it, and always the best of it with you. They are always willing to have less so that you can have more. Wageni, the word for stranger is the also the word for visitor or guest. Therefore, around here, there are no strangers, everyone is a guest of the community and is welcomed accordingly. People all along our road invite us into their homes to eat their food and join their families. I already have at least two Gatundu mamis and at least six cucus (pronounced shoo-shoo) or grandmothers. There is no way that I can ever repay the graciousness with which I have been received, so I only hope to show gratitude in my actions and behavior.
Despite the gracious hospitality and seeming availability of fresh produce, I come face to face with hunger and poverty every day both within and outside of the Icaciri compound. Just this week about a third of our students were sent home for failure to pay school fees which amount to about $400 a year. You see, primary education in Kenya is free, but secondary school must be paid for by families, and for people living hand-to-mouth, that is a lot of money. One of the most striking conversations I have had this month occurred on the road one afternoon. A man stopped Kari and I as we were walking to a kiosk for some cabbage. The first time we met this man, he was sitting at the gate in front of our school compound, and he looked up at us with tears in his eyes, calling us his savior. This time, he admitted to being a bit drunk before, but now he was completely sober and carrying a heavy load of firewood. He asked if we could help him in anyway. We tried to explain that we are just volunteers and are teaching at Icaciri for the year through the church. But he insisted that we have steady jobs and income, and that he can struggle from morning to night to earn even a single dollar. He was asking for anything, even a suggestion of how he could better his life, and we had nothing to offer. So often here, I feel like I come up short when it comes to helping others. I feel a deep, unutterable sadness rising within me that asks why the world is in the condition that it is? A sadness that wonders at the luxury of my life at home when families here struggle for food and survival. The same system that offered me so many advantages is built on the exploitation of others; others who now have names and faces, others who invite me into their homes for tea and nduma. As I think about the systems that gave me so much and gives others so little, I am forced to ask what difference the cross can make in this world? What difference does the scandal that is Christ crucified make in my life and in the way I live? As Christians we cannot fix all of the problems in the world, but what a difference it would make if we were willing to give of ourselves and our time in a way that resembled Jesus Christ. What if we were willing to have less so that others could have enough?
Some of the problems here seem rather overwhelming to me with my very American sensibilities, but in every conversation that I have with a Kenyan, they insist that "Kenya is a good place." Whether we are talking about the corruption that runs rampant in the government, the tribalism which still causes conflict all over the country, or the poverty you see all around, the conversation always ends in the same way: "but this is a good place." The lyrics of a song we sing in worship expresses this sentiment perfectly:
The time to be happy is now,
the place to be happy is here,
and the way to be happy is to make someone happy
and to bring a little heaven down here.
Amen. The way to be happy is to make someone else happy, and in doing so we bring a little of the divinity of Christ into the humanity of our lives. May God bless and keep you.
Mungu awabariki,
Lauren
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